BLUE: What and who I am referring to. (+ Titles and questions)
PURPLE: highlighted as key points I have made.
RED: my own writing - from research and sources (referenced).
GREEN: Quotations.
ORANGE: Not yet written or researched in full.
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Possible Titles -
Subheadings -
MA fashion management and communication
International marketing and brand management
Tiffany Fishleigh
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Executive summary - goes at the front of your report but it is the last thing you write as it's to summarise all of your report.
Aim:
The aim of this report is to critically analyse and explore two contemporary fashion brands, both emerging (Bruta) and established (Moschino). In order to understand these brands better, I look at the emerging and contemporary marketing approaches and brand management in the luxury global marketplace.
Research Methods:
Primary research: using primary research (qualitative and quantitative) methods to observe Bruta’s wholesale department stores and comparing and contrasting with Moschino’s flagship store in London. Using the research method - ethnography by taking part in a participant observation and creating a wardrobe analysis.
Secondary research: sourced from websites, journals and books.
Findings: through my research methods i have discovered…
Key recommendation:
Keywords: Bruta, Moschino, luxury, fashion, brand, global marketplace
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Introduction: -
The aim of this report is to understand the global marketplace by investigating an emerging luxury lifestyle brand (Bruta) and comparing and contrasting with an established luxury lifestyle brand (Moschino).
Firstly, in this report I will introduce, in brief, the two companies structures, following their identity, vision and their product ranges and services. Brand philosophy and values will follow throughout the report along with investigating the journeys of both brands in regards to their history and present day developments including their global expansion and successes. Secondly, I will underpin the contemporary, luxury fashion industry and critically analyse how both brands can learn from one another, learning about their approaches to marketing, their customers and their unique selling points.
Thirdly, both brands will be analysed using ethnography and anthropology. I will observe the consumers through participating in quantitative and qualitative research in order to understand their behaviour and emotional connections to the brands. I will uncover research by by using the marketing mix within my case study and show a participation observation in a wardrobe analysis with a Moschino fan, alongside this I will also include an interview with Bruta on their marketing strategies using sections from the marketing mix in order to compare and contrast both companies.
Finally, I will discuss the uncontrollable, external environments, including certain points made on the PESTEL model, these essential tools are used within companies in order to succeed and grow.
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Unisex clothing becomes more mainstream
The Aeffe Group is Moschino's online distributor.
the Luxury Fashion Brand in the Global Economic Crisis: A Case Study of Aeffe Group
Company overview/introduction
MOSCHINO
The Anarchist of Luxury Fashion.
Good taste doesn't exist. It is our taste. We have to be proud of it. - Franco Moschino
Brief history.
Italian couture label, Moschino, founded by Franco Moschino, was known for making fashion headlines with its rebellious, surrealist take on the fashion industry. ‘From its very beginnings in 1983, the moschino label has been synonymous with utmost in freedom and creativity, always aiming to break free from the bonds of conventional fashion’. (Mariuccua Casadio, pg.5).
This established luxury fashion brand very quickly became famous for its originality and its innovation for its campaigns on raising awareness on important social issues. After Franco Moschino's premature death, Rossella Jardini, his former collaborative assistant, became the creative director of the brand from 1994, then later in 2013, LA designer Jeremy Scott took over the brand and is current creative director.
The Brands Philosophy, Values - focus
The company offers an alternative to the traditional fashion industry as we know it, for Franco Moschino he viewed the so called “fashion system” as arrogant, which consisted of highly fashion-obsessed people who take fashion too seriously. Moschino is more focused on the creativity and the process of transforming what exists rather than being a follower of the endless cycle of trends. Each collection conveys a playful approach, seeking joy in its concepts and creating a narrative which represents enjoyment and the desire to express elegance and beauty in both women and men. “Even though the label expresses contemporary fashion elements, Moschino has always stood apart from the other luxurious brands which gives it its own personality of fashion today”.
From 1983 to present, the company has always maintained its brand image through its visual merchandising, nostalgic themes and its innovative runway shows. The label knows exactly how to deliver to their customers expectations and how to keep up with the contemporary market without having to change their brand perception.
Brand extensions:
Since the additions of their sub brands, such as love Moschino (women's and men's diffusion line, previously known as Moschino Jeans from 1986 to 2008), Moschino Cheap and Chic (women's secondary line, created in 1988), the company’s target market extensively expanded. Along with its multiple sub-brands, Moschino even opened a hotel, called Maison Moschino which launched in 2010.
What are they doing now in order to remain fresh and innovate?
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BRUTA
“I enjoy fashion, and art, but I try not to take them too seriously” (Yates, Liberty London).
Bridging the gap between art and fashion, emerging designer, Arthur Yates, who is the founder of Bruta, launched his young fashion and homeware label in 2015 with partner and company director Phoebe Saatchi. After several years of supplying high street brands with fast fashion along with maintaining regular art shows to showcase his paintings and sculptures, Yates decided to create his very own fashion label that would bring those two worlds together. Similar to Moschino, Yates also came from a fine art background. With having no formal fashion training behind him, Yates used his knowledge of art and introduced a creative approach within his clothing line. His designs celebrate local crafts, bold colours and hand designed embroidery, all of which are produced single handedly by Yates.
Much like Moschino, Yates enjoyed playing with the concept of what luxury fashion really is. He didn't take to trends or forth coming styles, he much prefered designing what was meaningful to him, making each design an original piece of artwork. He states, “I enjoy fashion, and art, but I try not to take them too seriously” (Yates, Liberty London).
“When I started Bruta I really wanted the hand of the designer to be felt in every piece of embroidery and design,” he says. “The illustrative element in our designs is definitely a Bruta signature.”
Vision:
This emerging brand is not like your typical high street fashion label. Yates took inspiration from the designs that were timeless rather than trend-focused.With his vision he wanted to combine the concept of romance and elegance, taking British heritage and tradition and merging it with urban London streetwear. ‘The label sets out to eschew cyclical trends and produce clothes that pertain to the heritage of British art and design season after season’ (Hannah Tindle, Another magazine, October 24, 2017).
Product offer:
The London-based line’s central focus consists of loose fitted, non formal shirting with a unisex approach, using cotton poplin and viscose, each incorporating embroidered or hand - painted designs in stitched motifs and prints. Along with his innovative shirting follows Yates own homeware handpainted designs, with the artwork infused onto ceramic milk urns that he sources around farms in the UK.
Global expansion:
After its launch in 2015, it did not take long to get noticed. Its striking concept of using two distinct elements became very popular. Bruta started with a small winter/fall 2015 collection that offered shirts and pottery that was picked up by a handful of boutiques — including H Lorenzo in Los Angeles, Idea by Sosu in Tokyo and Celestine Eleven in London. (HATTIE CRISELL JAN. 11, 2016).
Brand extensions: collaborations
In an interview with Clash, Yates says, “I'm looking at extending the range and exploring new ways to manufacture the collection in the UK. I want to produce as much as possible locally and it’s an aspect of the label that excites me at the moment”. http://clashmusic.com/fashion/bruta-begins-aw15
Expansion:
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MOSCHINO
Internal audit
Brand value - the marketing mix (7p’s) CASE STUDY
Financial positioning (historical/current/expected growth)
Visual identity - creator, logos, fonts, typography, colours, motifs.
Understanding the marketing strategies of both companies by visually analysing and exploring the elements used in the marketing mix and comparing and contrasting the two.
CASE STUDY:
How do these companies use their marketing strategies in relation to the elements used in the marketing mix?
MOSCHINO
Products
Quality, image, branding, features, use, customers
Technology, design, branding, packaging, value, quality, price strategies -
The Italian fashion label consists of ready-to-wear, leather and fashion accessories accompanied with shoes, luggage and perfume, all of which have an iconic, pop cultural and cartoon reference, which juxtaposes with good quality, well made, luxurious fabrics.
Moschino logo design is simple, pure bold letters with full name of brand, a color is changing depending of needs- gold, black, red- and there’s often a heart that appears on perfume pack, bags shape design or clothes print. Through their branding their trying to tell us to be fashionable, but never fashion victim. Fashion is funny, and we all should have a good time. https://www.brandingmag.com/2011/09/18/moschino/
People
By observing the company's clientele, it targets a diverse range of consumers that visually have a sense of humour and plenty of cash. (how do they dress? Photograph examples)
From a recent participant observation I was able to engage in a wardrobe analysis on one individual, Moschino's super fans.
PRIMARY RESEARCH:
wardrobe analysis/case study
Interview with nikk -
Describe your fashionable style in a single paragraph.
How did you hear about Moschino?
What is it you particularly like about Moschino? Brand image?
Why did you start to buy into Moschino?
What was the online ordering process like? In store staff contact experience?
From your first purchase, did you find yourself continually buying into the brand? If so why? If not why? (too expensive, a lot of upkeep and money, or for the statement, to show off you have money?)
What other label would you compare it with?
Who would you say they compete with?
Does the brand reflect on you and your style/ personality? If so why?
What is your signature Moschino piece and why?
Price
Value base, cost plus, payment methods, listing
The particular style of Moschino says ‘throwaway’, however it isn't cheap. The price category varies between £30 - £2,000. From online and in store observations the less expensive items starts with the accessories such as the i-phone covers, belts and fragrances leading onto the more expensive capsule collections. After the arrival of Jeremy Scott, the brands target consumer completely altered, ranging from 40-45 year olds, now targeting ages of 18+ due to its more affordable line of accessories and t-shirts.
Place
Where trades are, Retail, wholesale, online, internet
Moschino's headquarters is based in Milan, Italy.
Where do moschino trade?
Global expansion
Over the past 30 years the Moschino group has grown extensively. From 1966 several Moschino boutiques formed a global expansion, operating in Japan, Italy, London and New York, there are now over 150 Moschino boutiques worldwide in a number of locations. By 2003 there were several openings of flagship stores which were based in Paris, Rue de Grenelle, and Moscow, Petrovsky Passazh. (Moschino Brand History | Background of Franco Moschino the Italian Fashion Designer) (Fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com)
Wholesales/Stockists:
Selfridges
Farfetch
Flannels
Zee & Co.
Include personal point of view and back it up with sources.
Promotion
Competitors, celebrity endorsements, joint ventures, advertising/campaigns
Brand representation/ advertising/campaigns
The brand has elevated in contemporary design with its current themes specialising in pop cultural references and bold social statements, thus gaining great popularity and consumption from celebrity endorsements.
Talk about moschino's campaigns.
CELEBRITY ENDORSEMENTS
Since Scott pulled the brand back in 2013, celebrities such as Katy Perry, Miley Cyrus and Rihanna all gravitate towards the label because of the bold statement. The clothes are to represent people being very expressive, forward and fully free, which is very empowering. Fig.1 portrays a visual example of the type of celebrities that are influenced by Moschino. ‘Brands often use celebrities to get impact, because they are seen by the public as credible source of information about product or company. People aspire to the values and lifestyles of celebrities. Consumers selectively integrate perceived values and behavior of celebrities they admire, to build and communicate their own identity’. (CHIOSA ANA RALUCA, 2012).
Create a diagram of moschino's competitors
THE MASCOT.
Most designer brands usually has something or someone to represent the brand, kind of like a mascot. Usually designer brands use a model or an actress to epitomize the characteristics of a brands value. Moschino however use a cartoon character which is Olive from Popeye. Everything the brand does suits her personality and her style. https://www.styl.sh/articles/809-the-story-behind-moschino 13:49 27/09/17. By Lori on Apr 04 2015
The cartoon represents joy and playfulness. It makes it fun and engaging for consumers, it keeps them curious and wanting more.
Competitors:
Armani Exchange
Versace
Dolce and Gabbana
Miu Miu
Physical environment
Experience of brand, product packaging, online experience,
This is not a moschino toy
Process
Design features, customers core focus, services
Using household cleaning objects as designs for fragrances
The creators say: “The concept for this fragrance was to juxtapose the most mundane and commonplace of all products, the household cleaner, with something so precious - the juice of a luxury brand’s fragrance.
CASE STUDY PRIMARY RESEARCH:
Visual identity - creator, logos, symbols, fonts, typography, colours, materials, motifs.
London - Shop report - labels, store, layout, display, visual merchandising, clientele, price, fabrics, logo, etc.
Pen portrait profile - representing the customer in a mood board
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BRUTA
The marketing mix - 7p’s - Brand value
Products
Quality, image, branding, features, use, customers
Technology, design, branding, packaging, value, quality, price strategies -
Despite an emphasis on homegrown production and craft, the price points assigned to Bruta’s pieces are very reasonable. At the top-end, a shirt will set you back £160, and a substantial wool and cashmere overcoat hits £450 maximum. Considering what you might normally fork out for a garment decorated with hand-drawn detailing, it isn’t a huge amount. To buy a Bruta piece is to buy an example of wearable art.
By investing in a bruta piece, you are investing in a timeless piece of art.
People
Brutas customer reflects on the youth, caught between the old western era before the technological revolution and they can fully appreciate art for what it is. Their sense of style is not trend focused, it is individual and meaningful to their personality. This customer is not shy of money and will spend well on good quality, hand made garments.
Their main target audience are often remote and individualistic. It indulges into fashion absurdities of art, culture and humanity. Their aim is to target a youthful generation with a sense of diversity and creativity. A statement from yates reads:
“My idea of luxury is to be inclusive and democratic. With Bruta we try and make clothes at an affordable price to allow our youthful customer to indulge in our world!”
From observation:
Price
Value base, cost plus, payment methods, listing
Place
Retail, wholesale, online, internet
After just 18 months into his projects, Yates attracted a number of influential wholesale stockists. From branching out into simple yet high-quality outerwear, menswear and womenswear, it’s current stockists are Liberty London, Harvey Nichols and Present London with prices ranging from £3 for T-shirt to £65 for shirts. Now, three years on, Bruta remains true to its roots and currently stocks in the UK, Japan and China. The label has held its own life drawing art classes and launched a range of ceramic pots to accompany its shirting designs. In recent months, Bruta has created its very own line of ale, called Brew-ta, in keeping with its British theme.
From observing Brutas online status, the brand remains an outsider to the modernised world of fashion. However their online presence is engaging and captivates visual elements such as art directed photographs and videography. It holds a very obsolescent, classical film characteristic and composes a narrative in its concepts, perhaps its unpopularity is due to the unmodernised style and only targets a selective consumers. Along with its main website, Bruta has several social media platforms such as Instagram and Facebook, however their platforms identity appears dim in regards to their following. Their instagram currently holds 5,671 followers with a number of 50 - 200 likes for each post. Again with their Facebook home page, only 419 people like the account, which seems to indicate a lack of marketing and promotion. Although, despite the muted online platforms; because Bruta have several stockists in department stores around the world, the brand will more likely get more recognition and popularity this way which indicates a unique selling point.
Promotion
Competitors, celebrity endorsements, joint ventures, advertising/campaigns
Physical environment
Experience of brand, product packaging, online experience,
Process
Design features, customers core focus, services
CASE STUDY PRIMARY RESEARCH:
Visual identity - creator, logos, symbols, fonts, typography, colours, materials, motifs.
London - Shop report - labels, store, layout, display, visual merchandising, clientele, price, fabrics, logo, etc.
Pen portrait profile - representing the customer in a mood board
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4. Strategy - external audit
Macro environment (PESTEL) political/legal,
economic, ecological/ physical,
social/cultural and
technological
Target consumers
Growth strategy
Consumers view of the brand
Global expansion
MOSCHINO
The 2008 recession.
Macro environment (PESTEL) political/legal,
economic, ecological/ physical,
social/cultural and
Technological
Could put the pestle info into a form of a diagram so it doesn't add to the word count.
Political:
It wasn’t until early 2009 that the online boutique and website were launched (Moschino.com). The opening of the virtual store was an important decision for Moschino especially during the current economic recession. In the past few years, online sales, although somewhat affected by the economy, have exponentially grown. (Mintel) The online store also acts as another outlet for Moschino to communicate the company’s desired brand image to their customers and other shoppers who may not live near a Moschino store.
Despite the recession, online shopping remains popular, especially in households whose income is $100K or more a year (Mintel).
Economical and recession.
It was clever, it was heartfelt, it hit a contemporary nerve which made it eminently fashionable and perhaps, in some small way, it fuelled the questioning which, along with recession, consumer overload and the environmental problems, led to the sobriety of the Nineties.
This season every Moschino garment is sold with a letter from him. It is a manifesto and reads: 'all human, racial, religious, and last but not least, environmental values have been destroyed'. He goes on to announce that environmental concern is 'the only true and honest Fashion Trend' and cites ways in which his production processes have taken this into account. http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/obituary-franco-moschino-1450166.html
The Aeffe Group company develops, produces and distributes goods, operating worldwide since 1999. The Group’s business is focused on the luxury fashion goods sector and is active in the design, production and distribution of a wide range of products. The Group’s business is divided, based on the various product lines and brands it sells, into two segments: prêt-à porter and footwear and leather goods.The Group's constant focus is on the qualities of uniqueness and exclusivity, its own collections both under its own-label brands, including Moschino.
After the financial slump of the global economic crisis, Aeffe promoted its core brands such as Alberta Ferretti and Moschino which more contribute to the Group’s revenues each offering of new products and accessories is always driven by a marketing and commercial strategy aimed at assuring good results aligned with the Group’s expectations and above all Aeffe pays much attention to the possible impact that the launching of a new product/line could produce on the company’s brand image. For this reason, the innovation activity goes often hand in hand with the creation of new brands (i.e. Love Moschino, PHILOsophy) which are able to evoke the traditional values of the company’s brands and also to connote
the specific attributes of the new product/line.
Looks at the global economic crises.
Social:
Social media campaigns - going against the fashion industry's expectations
technological:
New technologies - Live streaming runway show - Moschino has teamed up with modern tech company, Livit, for their Spring/Summer 2017 menswear collection and their Resort 2017 womenswear collection.
People
Who is a Moschino man?
The shiny, reinvented label targeting a younger customer, that's described as leading "a busy working and personal life." They are not as fashion addicted and irony remains key to Boutique Moschino (cheap and chic). Reflecting Franco and his customer’s motto: I am what I am."
CUSTOMER PROFILE.
Moschino’s customer appeals to the youthful generation who are rebellious and resentful and want to elevate the boundaries of fashion. Its to target those with money and are wanting to use that to gain attention by buying these OTT outfits/fragrances/accessories. Moschino's real money maker comes from its accessories. By selling fragrances and phone cases between the price category of £30 - £100 young people begin to buy into the brand and then continue to hook you onto the more expensive items.
“I'm a populist. I'm the people's designer... It's important that there are price points that allow people in who maybe don't have the ability to have higher-ticket items - but they can still have something very emblematic of the collection”. - Jeremy Scott
Ethics
Growth strategy
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BRUTA
4. Strategy - external audit
Macro environment (PESTEL) political/legal,
economic, ecological/ physical,
social/cultural and
technological
Target consumers
Growth strategy
Consumers view of the brand
CSR/ethics
Celebrity endorsements
Global expansion
Retail life cycle
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5. Evaluation
SWOT
Recommendations
Expansion
MOSCHINO
SWOT analysis
STRENGTHS - simple and versatile, individualistic designs, variety of lines to appeal to a broader range of customers, multiple price points - for different choices of style and qualities.
WEAKNESS
Insufficient advertisements. Few found in magazines. Insufficient focus on the asian market.
OPPORTUNITIES
Association with celebrities. Targeting young and mature consumers. International expansion.
THREATS
Overseas location development might hinder growth of the company. accessibility/expansion of brand image/awareness