Tuesday, 10 October 2017

STATE ~ OF ~ THE ~ ARTS

MEET BRUTA.

"Bruta means different things in different languages, but all along the lines of crazy, crude, raw, dumb, or ugly," says London-based designer Arthur Yates of the name of his new line of shirts. "I liked the universality of the word and the way it sounds, but maybe it relates to my brand because you can't pin down what it means exactly, but it looks good!" (Laurel Pantin, Feb 3, 2016 ) http://www.wearesweet.co/fashion/reviews/g92/a-stitch-in-time/ 12:55 26/09/17



As an emerging designer, Arthur Yates, who is the founder of Bruta, launched his fashion and homeware label in 2015. Bruta is not like your typical high street fashion label. Yates wanted to combines the concept of romance and elegance with urban London streetwear. Each individual item has its very own unique edge, looking into heritage, culture, art and traditional crafts. With having no formal fashion training behind him, Yates used his background knowledge of arts and introduced a creative approach within his clothing. His designs celebrate local crafts, bold colours and hand designed embroidery, all of which are produced single handedly by Yates.


The London-based line consists of loose fitted, non formal shirting with a unisex approach, which are then either embroidered or printed with varying motifs. The vision behind Bruta is to bring elegance and grace into everyday casual street wear. Along with his innovative shirting follows Yates own handpainted designs, with the artwork infused onto ceramic milk urns that he sources around farms in the UK.


Arthur's career in fashion began in 2008, he was only a teenager when he launched his own manufacturing company which involved producing jersey and denim apparel for the British high-street retailers such as Topshop, River Island and Asos. After several years of supplying high street brands with fast fashion along with maintaining regular art shows to showcase his paintings and sculptures, Yates decided to create his very own fashion label that would bring those two worlds together.




LAUNCHING BRUTA.

By 2013, Yates mentioned how the company was “eating away at his soul”. He wanted to get out of his current job and create a project that would be meaningful to him. Yates began to think about how he could adapt a relationship between creativity and business, from this Bruta was born.


Brutas story all began with the inspiration of the simplicity and seasonless nature of Savile Row tailors. Yates took inspiration from the designs that were timeless rather than trend-focused. His own unique adaption in his collection was to combine shirting and pottery.
Using Savile Row as a start point, he decided to undercut tradition by creating sharply-cut, gender-fluid shirts with colourful bunched flowers, and stitched graphic motifs along the collars and sleeves. http://alist.vanityfair.co.uk/centre-stage-bruta-13856/ 14:32 26/09/17


Yates does all of his work from home with his girlfriend and company director, Phoebe Saatchi. After Yates quietly launched the brand, it did not take long to get noticed. Its striking concept of using two distinct elements became very popular.
After just 18 months into his projects, Yates attracted a number of influential wholesale stockists, such as Liberty, YBD and Present London. Now Bruta currently stocks in the UK, Japan and China.


“There wasn’t some master plan, I was just doing them in my bedroom with help from my girlfriend. And now it’s growing into something a little bit more serious, and people are taking interest.” (Arthur Yates, the new york times style magazine, JAN. 11, 2016)


Bruta started with a small winter/fall 2015 collection that offered shirts and pottery that was picked up by a handful of boutiques — including H Lorenzo in Los Angeles, Idea by Sosu in Tokyo and Celestine Eleven in London. (HATTIE CRISELL JAN. 11, 2016).


“Bruta reflects everything exciting that is happening in men’s wear at the moment as the aesthetic is moving from something very clean to a place where print, embellishment and embroidery are at the fore,” http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/british-label-bruta-launch-liberty-of-london-10345876/



Looking into Yates collections you can see his inspiration from the charms and absurdities of art, culture and humanity. The Gaucho Zambino s/s16 collection, pays homage to Gaugin and his time in Tahiti. The unisex shirts use patterns found on traditional primitive Tahitian loincloths & explores Gaugin's ideas of Paradise Lost.


For his most recent A/W17 collection, Bruta creates Anglo Tango. For this collection Yates has paid homage to England’s rich history, taking the most intrinsic elements of British culture and reworking them into a contemporary collection that oozes sophistication and playfulness. In honour of the new collection, Pheobe Saatchi produced and directed a short film to resemble the brand’s signature sense of humour. https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2017/07/14/bruta-anglo-tango/



What is the brand currently doing?
Are they looking into future collaborations?
Looking to expand?



THE BRAND PHILOSOPHY.

  • Very personal.
  • Holds meaning and life inspirations.
  • The clothing takes you on a journey.
  • Artistic and cultural



MARKETING OBSERVATION.

From observing Bruta from a personal point of view, The brand still remains an outsider to the modernised world of fashion. Their main target audience are often remote and individualistic to the norm. It indulges into fashion absurdities of art, culture and humanity. Their aim is to target a youthful generation with a sense of diversity and creativity. A statement from yates reads:


My idea of luxury is to be inclusive and democratic. With Bruta we try and make clothes at an affordable price to allow our youthful customer to indulge in our world!”

The brands unique selling points cover their social media and its stockists. Bruta’s website reveals very modern in the sense that it is bold and ‘straight to the point’. It captivates visual elements such as art directed photographs and videography. It holds a very obsolescent, classical film characteristic to its online platform. Along with its main website, Bruta has several social media platforms such as Instagram and Facebook, however from observing this, their identity appeared to be very unpopular. Their instagram currently holds 5,671 followers with a number of 50 - 200 likes for each post. Again with their Facebook home page, only 419 people like the account, which seems to indicate a lack of marketing and promotion. Although, despite the muted online platforms; because Bruta have several stockists in department stores around the world, the brand will more likely get more recognition and popularity this way.

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